6:36am following morning
A porter taps on my door as she gently says “Good morning” several times. Having finally found REM sleep, I groan peeling away the canopy. It’s cold this morning, the kind of cold I’ve not felt since leaving London. Mist covers the hillside like an enormous high-tog duvet and I only hope the sun will burn it away soon.
The boat heads off and shortly after we stop at another local village, this time guarded. I am the KeyMaster of Gozer, are you two the Gatekeepers?
The path through the village is lined with women sat with scarfs, calling out to the punters; I detour and wander around instead. Taking a picture, this lady asks to see my Camera screen and laughs heartily, seeing the result.
Further ahead a young lad has just discovered knives and is busily chopping anything he can get his mitts on. And on exiting the village, I spot the local gas station for motorboats.
As lunch rolls around, I’m presented with a plate consisting of tender German Würst, succulent wrapped Carp, perfectly spiced fried rice and the most flavoursome meat I’ve ever come across; Water Buffalo. In fact, I think I’m addicted, going back for two further helpings.
In only two days, Laos has been an eye-opening and contrasting place of astonishing beauty and yet extreme poverty. But please, save yourself the bother and skip over the Pak Ou Caves – it’s about as impressive as having a thousand Facebook friends. “Wow” you’ll say and be done in five minutes; Lonely Planet lies and exaggerates. I’m just glad it was part of the river cruise.
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