I keep repeating the same phrase to myself; “If I was here on holiday, I’d buy so much tat”, and in Hoi An, it’s difficult to turn down a tailor made three-piece suit, shirt and tie for $100. But I don’t have the room – nor job for that matter – to justify the purchase. And in any case, I may put on considerable weight during travel and tear said suit in to pieces, when walking up the first set of stairs I come across.
So I’ll pass, with an addendum to visit sometime in the future and collect the shopping list I have accumulated: My name in Chinese script, a suit or two, a traditional painting, a tapestry made by victims of Agent Orange, a marble carving of a unicorn, a pair of Ho Chi Minh sandals and a miniature helicopter made from expended rounds of an AK-47. For now, pictures, videos, receipts and trinkets that fit inside a bubble-wrapped envelope will suffice.
A lady’s voice can be heard in all streets of this quaint French-styled town asking punters to play a game later in the evening. It sounds like a one-off (though sadly is nightly), and whilst as alien to me as an intelligent Soccer player, the singing does remind me of something from Team America, or Southpark’s Chinese restaurant owner. To the right is a river, which is decorated with a multitude of coloured floating lanters, some large and others petite. Find a bar, order some food and sit and enjoy the scenery and atmosphere; it’s truly relaxing.
It’s a beautiful town, no doubt, though stepping off the train and being completely surrounded by taxi drivers, I’m glad to have found an Aussie couple to split the fare with. Around an hour away from the Danang train station, it takes almost half an hour to negotiate a reasonable price for the journey; the same again to find a driver with a car big enough for four people plus luggage. Fifteen dollars for the trip and he’s made his day’s money; an average salary of $1500 (according to the receptionist), means that one of these fares a day and you’re quids in.
Next morning, pay your 90,000 Dong and receive a ticket entitling entrance to five points of interest dotted around the town; but all within walking distance. There’s the Japanese covered bridge – depicted with some inaccuracy – on the 20,000 note. But it’s just a bridge, and not a particularly interesting one at that. Take obligatory stock shot and move on. The highlight for me is the Meeting Halls; intricate symbolism, fascinating ceremonies, smart costumes and statues of mythical creatures makes for some great diversity from the same same Buddhism of Thailand and Laos.
The ornamental decorations covering the Meeting Halls are both intricate and crafted with care and precision. This ceiling having a selection of coiled incense sticks that burn your wish true for a full 7 days. Of the three sacred creatures, two are mythical; the dragon and unicorn. The latter of which presumably is the closest English word to Vietnamese, considering the disparity between symbolism. He is the keeper of calm for the people; ensuring everyone is content, growling and pointing his red nose at troublesome individuals. One should be present at all Soccer matches. The dragon enjoys playing with balls and the Turtle gives sanctified swords to the people to fight foreign invaders. Shame the locals eat them, then.
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